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MartinMargiela Early1990s UniqueUpcycled Garters&Crotch Velvet CroppedHalter Bra

About the Item

Captured in a video still from his Fall/Winter 1992 collection fashion show in Paris, Martin Margiela uniquely upcycled the seam intersections from the crotch, dart or tuck on deconstructed garments to make a high-relief topstitched cross shape as the mysterious design detail on some of his tops and knits. On this Maison Martin Margiela silky black velour velvet cropped halter, the altered seams are the subtle central feature of the transformed fully-lined viscose breast-plate. The backless top is constructed like a pullover bra with flexible elastic crisscrossing straps with metal hardware, which appear to be upcycled hosiery garters or suspenders. The iconic off-white blank brand label is hand-sewn at its four corners on the reverse to just the lining, where there are also material/size/manufacture-country tags above it. The French-size 40 is flexible enough to be worn over another top or alone by a range of sizes such as a large busted 36 or a small busted 42. Since our small-size mannequin is backless, when worn by the buyer the upper part of the halter will sit higher on the chest and the bottom corners attached to the elastic bands will be less visible in back than we could photograph. Fortunately, we found the same Margiela halter in a sunny black-and-white photoshoot from Fall 1995, and included our pics of a few shots. In one, notice that the black velvet is reflecting sunlight as white due to the irregular texture of the seamed cross. The Fall/Winter 1995 "Circus" collection by Maison Martin Margiela featured similar lined velour and sleeveless tops in the fashion show, but we could not find any photos of the distinct X-shaped elastic straps boldly defining the back of our top. The most similar runway imagery that we could find of the front of a black "crotch" top was from 1992. Lacking a numbered tag that Margiela later used to identify his multiple lines, it is unclear if our top is a couture artisanal piece, while the unprecedented upcycled elements and topstitching make it a handcrafted one-off either way. Only some of the early artisanal pieces included a numbed-0 tag, which can be seen in our other listing for the 1992 pullover sweater that he upcycled from long knit socks. Compared to the documented Margiela tops since 1988, this one is quite a versatile garment as it can enhance the formal or casual styling of many silhouettes.
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